According to a recent study, focaccia didn’t originate in Rome but in Mesopotamia more than 9,000 years ago.
Nations are shaped by their traditions and history, and food holds a special place in that context. The U.S. wouldn’t be the same without Apple pies and mac and cheese, just as the United Kingdom wouldn’t be what it is without fish & chips. You also likely can’t imagine Mexico without tacos or Italy without pasta, pizza, and its famous focaccia.
However, the history of Italian cuisine appears to differ from what we’ve always been told. Recent findings suggest that the origins of focaccia may be in doubt. Archaeological evidence points to a people who predated the Romans by at least six millennia.
Turkish focaccia. When we think of focaccia, we often associate it with Italian cuisine. This dish, whose dough is similar in style to pizza, is made from flour, oil, water, salt, and yeast. From that base, people can add various ingredients based on their creativity and preferences, although it’s typically seasoned with herbs such as rosemary and drizzled with olive oil.
Focaccia has long been regarded as a staple of Italian cuisine since Ancient Roman times. Interestingly, recent research indicates that its roots may actually go back to the Neolithic period, between 7,000 and 5,000 BC, in Mesopotamian communities located in present-day Syria and Turkey. This suggests that Turkish and Syrian cultures were baking and sharing focaccia bread long before it became closely associated with Italy.
An archaeological finding. The study was led by an international team of archaeologists, including participants from Spain’s Autonomous University of Barcelona and Italy’s Sapienza University of Rome. Their findings were published in Nature.
They analyzed 13 ceramic fragments discovered at various sites, such as Mezraa Teleilat and Tell Sabi Abyad, in the region. These fragments, identified as husking trays made from coarse clay, displayed wear patterns consistent with baking utensils.
Chemical and thermal evidence. Using techniques like stereomicroscopes and chemical analysis, researchers identified organic residues, including animal fats and plant phytoliths, that showed signs of exposure to temperatures up to 790 degrees Fahrenheit.
According to the team, the trays could’ve been used to make a type of bread very similar, if not identical, to what we now recognize as focaccia, enriched with local ingredients. This suggests a significant level of culinary experimentation.
A communal meal. Additionally, the research team concluded that Neolithic communities prepared breads weighing up to 6.6 pounds, likely intended to be eaten communally. The study indicates that a shared, communal approach to eating was prevalent in the region for at least six centuries before the tradition spread to other areas. These include Italy, where focaccia quickly developed its modern cultural significance.
According to researcher Sergio Taranto, “Our study offers a vivid picture of communities using the cereals they cultivated to prepare breads and focaccias enriched with various ingredients and consumed in groups.”
Cultural impact. Recent findings not only redefine the origins of focaccia but also highlight how early human communities innovated and adapted their resources to create complex foods.
The study emphasizes the influence of Neolithic food practices from the Fertile Crescent on later culinary traditions. It connects ancient civilizations to modern customs and illustrates the cultural evolution of bread as a fundamental food for humanity.
In the end, even if focaccia isn’t of Roman origin, it’s still incredibly delicious.
Image | Paula Berto
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